From Season 11: Southern
Fare Reinvented
Why this recipe works:
Crackling-crisp, golden-brown, and juicy—what’s not to love about fried
chicken? In a word, frying. Heating—and then cleaning
up—more than a quart of fat on the stovetop is more trouble than mo...(more)
We wanted fried chicken with a super-crisp crust and juicy meat without
resorting to quarts of oil.
Serves 4
A whole 4-pound chicken, cut into 8 pieces, can be used instead
of the chicken parts. Skinless chicken pieces are also an acceptable
substitute, but the meat will come out slightly drier. A Dutch oven with an
11-inch diameter can be used in place of the straight-sided sauté pan.
·
1. Whisk 1 cup buttermilk, 1 tablespoon salt,
hot sauce, 1 teaspoon black pepper, ¼ teaspoon garlic powder, ¼ teaspoon
paprika, and pinch of cayenne together in large bowl. Add chicken and turn to
coat. Refrigerate, covered, at least 1 hour or up to overnight.
·
2. Adjust oven rack to middle position and heat
oven to 400 degrees. Whisk flour, baking powder, 1 teaspoon salt, and remaining
2 teaspoons black pepper, ¾ teaspoon garlic powder, ¾ teaspoon paprika, and
remaining cayenne together in large bowl. Add remaining ¼ cup buttermilk to
flour mixture and mix with fingers until combined and small clumps form.
Working with 1 piece at a time, dredge chicken pieces in flour mixture,
pressing mixture onto pieces to form thick, even coating. Place dredged chicken
on large plate, skin side up.
·
3. Heat oil in 11-inch straight-sided sauté pan
over medium-high heat to 375 degrees. Carefully place chicken pieces in pan,
skin side down, and cook until golden brown, 3 to 5 minutes. Carefully flip and
continue to cook until golden brown on second side, 2 to 4 minutes longer.
Transfer chicken to wire rack set in rimmed baking sheet. Bake chicken until
instant-read thermometer inserted into thickest part of chicken registers 160
degrees for breasts and 175 for legs and thighs, 15 to 20 minutes. (Smaller
pieces may cook faster than larger pieces. Remove pieces from oven as they
reach -correct temperature.) Let chicken rest 5 minutes before serving.
Technique
We fine-tuned the first part of our fried chicken
recipe to achieve well-seasoned meat with a thick coating tailor-made to turn
craggy and crunchy—then revolutionized how we cooked it.
1. BRINE IN BUTTERMILK
Soaking the chicken in seasoned buttermilk both
enhances flavor and ensures that the meat retains moisture.
2. COAT IN BUTTERMILK
Adding a little buttermilk to the dry ingredients
of the coating creates irregular texture, which translates to extra crunch.
3. START ON STOVETOP
Frying in 1 3/4 cups of oil
jumpstarts a super-crisp coating with minimal cleanup.
4. FINISH IN OVEN
Transferring the chicken to a 400-degree oven
allows it to cook through without overbrowning.
Technique
Property frying chicken from start to finish using
traditional methods requires lots of messy oil. Our hybrid stove-to-oven method
cuts it way back.
TRADITIONAL WAY
5 cups oil
OUR WAY
1 3/4 cups oil
Technique
In fried chicken recipes, soaking the chicken in
buttermilk is a standard approach that helps tenderize the meat (mainly the
outer layers). But is adding salt to the buttermilk really necessary to ensure
meat that’s also juicy?
EXPERIMENT
We cooked four batches of chicken side by side.
Three of them were soaked for an hour, one in a solution of buttermilk and
salt, one in only buttermilk, and one in a plain saltwater solution. The fourth
was not soaked. All of the chicken was dredged in flour before frying.
RESULTS
The unsoaked chicken was
dry and tough. The saltwater-soaked chicken was moist but a bit rubbery. The
chicken soaked in plain buttermilk, while tender, was not terribly moist. Only
the chicken soaked in salted buttermilk came out both tender and moist.
EXPLANATION
Buttermilk and salt play equally important roles
here. Buttermilk contains lactic acid, which activates the cathepsin
enzymes naturally present in meat as it penetrates mostly the outer layers of
the chicken. These enzymes break down proteins into smaller molecules,
tenderizing the meat. (We’ve found that strong acids such as wine and vinegar
can break down so many proteins that the meat turns mushy, but the lactic acid
in buttermilk is too weak to have this effect.) Just as in a
traditional brine, the salt helps change the protein structure of meat
so that it can retain more moisture as it cooks, producing noticeably juicier
results.